What Makes Raku Special
Most pottery is fired slowly, cooled slowly, and opened days later. Raku throws all of that out. You fire fast, pull pieces from a glowing kiln with tongs, drop them into combustible materials, and watch fire do the decorating. Every piece is a one-time event — no two raku firings produce identical results.
Stephen Jepson's raku work spans decades. His video lessons cover the full process — from choosing the right clay body to pulling pieces safely, to understanding why certain glazes produce copper flashes, crackle patterns, or matte black surfaces.
The Raku Firing Process
Bisque Fire First
Fire raku clay pieces to cone 06 (1828°F) in a regular kiln. This hardens the clay enough to handle and accept glazes while keeping it porous. Use clay with high grog content — it must survive extreme thermal shock later.
Apply Raku Glazes
Brush or dip raku-specific glazes onto bisqueware. Copper glazes produce metallic lusters. Crackle glazes create fine web patterns. Apply evenly and generously — raku glazes are thick and bold by design.
Fire to 1800-1900°F
Heat the raku kiln (propane-fired, top-loading) for 45-90 minutes. Watch through the peephole — when glazes turn glossy and molten, pieces are ready. Don't rely on temperature alone; visual cues matter most.
Pull from the Kiln
Using long metal tongs and heat-resistant gloves, extract each glowing piece. Move quickly and deliberately. The window between kiln and reduction chamber is seconds — hesitation means the piece cools too much for proper reduction.
Reduction Chamber
Drop the red-hot piece into a metal trash can filled with newspaper, sawdust, or leaves. The material ignites instantly. Seal the lid to cut off oxygen. This starved-oxygen environment (reduction) is what creates raku's metallic and smoky effects.
Quench and Clean
After 15-20 minutes, remove the piece with tongs and plunge into water. The thermal shock locks in the crackle pattern as carbon fills the cracks. Scrub off carbon residue to reveal the final surface. Each piece is a surprise.
Raku Safety — Non-Negotiable
- Work outdoors only — Open flames, smoke, and fumes require open air. Never raku indoors or in a garage.
- Heat-resistant gloves — Welding gloves rated to 1,000°F minimum. Regular oven mitts will not protect you.
- Natural-fiber clothing — Cotton or leather. Synthetic fabrics melt onto skin near high heat. Long sleeves, closed shoes.
- Safety glasses — Sparks, ash, and radiant heat. Protect your eyes at all times near the kiln.
- Fire extinguisher — Within arm's reach. Combustible materials and open flame demand it.
- Never work alone — Always have a partner. If something goes wrong, you need someone who can help immediately.
Popular Raku Glaze Effects
- Copper matte — Produces rich copper, bronze, and iridescent surfaces. The most iconic raku finish.
- Crackle (crazing) — A clear or white glaze that develops a network of fine cracks filled with carbon smoke. Elegant and dramatic.
- Horsehair raku — No glaze. Lay horsehair or feathers on the hot piece. They burn instantly, leaving dark organic line patterns.
- Naked raku — A resist slip under the glaze. The glaze peels off after reduction, leaving a smoky, matte surface with crackle patterns in the bare clay.